TOPOS AND ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS
Please note that the topos and route descriptions below are for your information only and do not imply any right of access. Also note that rock climbing and scrambling are risk sports with an element of danger of injury or death and that sound mountaineering judgement should be used in conjunction with the information contained in the topos and route descriptions. The grades quoted in the topos and route descriptions are subjective and routes may be more difficult or easier than the grades stated. Any fixed gear on the routes should be used with caution as it will change over time and should be thoroughly inspected before use.
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Costa Blanca, Spain
Bernia Ridge Topo and Route Description
Essential Information
The Bernia Ridge is 3.5 km ridge which runs between Pinos and Bernia in the Costa Blanca, Spain. A traverse of the ridge requires a minimum competency of scrambling at grade 3. There is one short section of technical rock climbing at F4+ which is fully bolted and can be aided at A0 if necessary. Parties should allow 7 hours for a full traverse, if travelling unroped on up to grade 2 scrambling terrain. The ridge is most easily followed from East to West as many of the difficult sections can be bypassed by abseiling. Abseil stations are well equipped with bolts and chains. A 40m rope, 10 quickdraws and a few slings should be carried. The ridge is best accessed by parking at ‘The Bernia Restaurant’ on the North side and using the marked paths. Cutting across country should be avoided as thick gorse makes travel incredibly slow and painful! Once on the ridge route finding is quite straightforward because the way is well marked with red dots and arrows. However the route finding when descending from the ridge can be quite difficult – pay attention here to avoid a lengthy bushwhack. The best scrambling lies between the east summit and the descent col, although continuing to the main summit is also recommended.
Approach
Drive to Jalon (also known as Xalo) and follow signs to the Centre Urbano. Take a small side road which is signposted to Bernia. Follow this to the Bernia Restaurant which is close to the end of the road. Park a hundred yards further down the road on the right just before the road becomes dirt track. There is a large map of the area including the tourist paths in the car park. This car park can also be reached from Pinos.
Ascending to the Bernia Ridge
The quickest way to the ridge is to use a way-marked tourist path which brings you out at East Col: From the parking head left along a track marked with yellow and white stripes. After a while, a smaller path (also marked with yellow and white) forks uphill. Follow this until the ridge is reached – here a narrow tunnel passes through the ridge from North to South. Do not follow the tunnel but scramble up and left (way-marked with red dots) to reach East Col. The east summit can be reached a short scramble (grade 2).
For a full traverse of the ridge follow the low level track until it passes beneath the east summit and rises to reach a gentle slopes beyond the ridge. Head up and right to join the start of the ridge. Easy scrambling with one short descent of grade 2 will gain the east summit.
Route Description
From the east summit make a short abseil (or a grade 2 descent) followed by some easy, but exposed scrambling and another abseil (or grade 2 descent) to reach east col.
From east col continue with scrambling and walking until a short abseil and traverse is reached (in situ bolts). This can be down-climbed at an exposed grade 2. After more easy scrambling the twin pinnacles are reached. Beyond the pinnacles abseil down the south side of the ridge (20m – down-climbable at steep F6c). Continue on the south side of the ridge until possible to cut straight up by a 15m section of grade 3 scrambling (spike belays). Continue to a narrow col and the central summit.
Descend from central summit by walking and easy scrambling until a col is reached and 3 large fins of rock divide the ridge into lanes. Follow the right hand lane until a line of bolts leads upwards onto the ridge. One pitch of F4+ (23m, well bolted) leads to a bolt and thread belay and a second pitch of unprotected grade 3 scrambling to reach spike belays (18m). Regain the crest and continue to a col.
From the col continue along the crest past a summit until a bolted traverse is reached (grade 2). The traverse ends in an 18m abseil (or grade 2 descent down a polished slab) which ends in the large bay of the descent col. Either descend here to the north side of the ridge or continue on towards the main summit.
Head directly across the bay to reach a grade 2 gully and continue past 3 false summits and lots of grade 1 scrambling and walking to the main summit and trig point. Remember to fill in the notebook at the top!
Descents
The most popular descent is that from the main summit. It is well marked with red dots and cairns. Continue along the ridge past the main summit for 300m past some exposed grade 1 scrambling. Keep a lookout on the left for red dots and follow these south off the ridge. Descend scree and follow a small path along a wide sloping ramp back east for several hundred metres before descending on this path to within a 200m of the fort. From here follow the wide tourist path (marked with yellow and white stripes) back to the Bernia restaurant (40 minutes).
A quicker alternative is to skip the main summit and descend north from the large bay at the descent col. From the bay head straight down scree slopes until you come across the tourist path which is used to access east col from the car park. Follow this west and down to the Bernia restaurant.
There are many other possible descents and escape routes. Most of these leave the ridge at a col and head down scree runs to the north side. It will then be possible to pick up the tourist path which accesses east col. However, beware the gorse!
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The Ponoch Via Ferrata (Costa Blanca)
Essential Information
The Ponoch Via Ferrata has been recently completed (Dec 2006) near the town of Polop on the Costa Blanca. It is well equipped at the moment although unfortunately the wire gauge has been plastic coated and therefore traps water inside which could lead to rusting of the cable in the future. This is the biggest cliff in the area and boasts many superb traditional and bolted rock climbs up to 16 pitches long. The route finding while on the via ferrata is very straightforward – just follow the rungs. The descent is well signposted but requires two 30m abseils which are possible with a 60m rope (the signs at the top state a 30m and a 35m abseil but this is not the case!). Allow a half day to complete the journey at a leisurely pace, although those moving quickly could do so in a couple of hours.
Approach
Leave the A7 at Benidorm and head towards Polop (signposted for Callosa d’en Sarria) on the CV70. The large cliff of the Ponoch is unmissable on the left. Instead of going into the centre of Polop head along the ring road towards Guadalest. At the 3rd roundabout go left into Polop Paradise Urbanisation. Head up through the urbanisation and park by a large green building at the highest point on the road.
Follow a path from the back right hand end of the building (as you look at the cliff). This goes along a dry stream bed until it is exits the stream bed on the right. Follow the path and cairns up the hill to the base of the cliff. Traverse below the main cliff until you approach an arête at the right hand end. The via ferrata is obvious at this point, following the arête in a splendid situation.
Descent
Head up from the top of the via ferrata for a few metres and then follow a path which contours right (facing in) across the hillside. Well signed. Follow the path down and right (facing in) past some scrambling until two 30m abseils are reached. Descend these to the base of the cliff where it is possible to descend reasonably directly towards the parking.
Enjoying one of the steeper sections of the Costa Blanca Via Ferrata
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Aristoteles (F4+, 9 pitches), Puig Campana, Costa Blanca
 
Walk in - as for El Diamante (see the ROCKFAX guidebook), Head round to right of the single pitch sport routes (the lump which Espolon Finestrat traverses in above). “Arist.” in Red lettering at the start of the route
1) a narrow rib/arete leads to another rib on the right. (III)
2) Head left up broken grey sheets with many large waterworn holes - continue straight up to a large flat area. Belay at the back right hand end of the flattening. (III)
3) Head across to the right and continue up a rib to a small ledge and nut belay (III)
4) Head straight up blocky flakes until they run out then make moves on pockets up the clean slabs above to reach easier ground and continue to a large pinnacle belay. (IV)
5) Traverse across the knife edge ridge on the right and climb a short wall to a large terrace which splits the lower and the upper half of the route. Continue up and around right to belay below a short gully. (III)
6) Up the gully then head trend left over broken ground to belay below a large dramatic corner.
6a) Optional direct pitch - From the centre of the terrace go direct up the grove in the steep wall, then trend right and continue to belay below the large dramatic corner (V?)
7) Climb the right hand side of the corner past a peg and trend right past more fixed gear on the pocketed slab to a large thread belay. (IV+)
8) From the belay head up and left past a peg and onto the arete which forms the skyline. continue in a fine position up the arete and slabs above to reach a belay. (IV)
9) Continue up the side of the pinnacle in an increasingly spectacular situation until the top is reached after a long pitch (50m III+, can be broken at several ledges). Bolt belay.
Descent:
Ab. From the bolts at the top
1) 25m to a three bolt anchor (badly linked bolts)
2) 50m to a short 10m scramble to a tree or 60m to the tree
3) 50m to a terrace - cross this to a tree on the left (facing out)
4) 50m down a steep slope with loose rock (careful) and then over the edge to a ledge and scramble left. Or 60m to the base.
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Villena Via Ferrata (Costa Blanca)
The Via Ferrata at Villena is relatively short and straightforward compared that of The Ponoch and is a good introduction to Via Ferrata. It is easily completed in a leisurely half day and could be combined with some rock-climbing at the nearby cliffs in Sax or a drink in the bar at the La Cruces monument, which overlooks the town of Villena.
Approach
Follow the A31 motorway – signs for Madrid. Leave the motorway at Villena and follow the road round the east side of town. You will reach a roundabout where the second exit is signposted for the centre of town; take the first exit up the hill on the right. Follow signs for ‘La Cruces’ which lead to parking at a small monument which consists of 3 crosses, overlooking a large castle.
Walk straight up the hill behind the crosses on a vague path until you come to a good path which contours across the hill. Follow this left until you reach a sign pointing uphill to the via ferrata. Follow the path (marked with yellow diamonds) up to the col. Gear up here.
Via Ferrata
Descend slightly then contour left (facing downhill) along wire cables to the base of the via ferrata. Ascend the rungs with two steep sections and a wire bridge in the middle.
Descent
There are two possible descents.
1) It is possible to abseil from bolt stations starting just to the right of the top of the via ferrata and then retrace your steps.
2) Follow the ridge to the summit (with unsightly radio masts) and descend back along the hillside on a good path (marked in yellow and white) to reach the carpark.
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