We try to include routes that have no English language guidebook or whose topos and route descriptions are difficult to come by. Please note that the topos and route descriptions below are for your information only and do not imply any right of access. Also note that rock climbing and scrambling are risk sports with an element of danger of injury or death and that sound mountaineering judgement should be used in conjunction with the information contained in the topos and route descriptions. The grades quoted in the topos and route descriptions are subjective and routes may be more difficult or easier than the grades stated. Any fixed gear on the routes should be used with caution as it will change over time and should be thoroughly inspected before use.
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Bernia ridge topo and route description
The Bernia Ridge is 3.5 km ridge which runs between Pinos and Bernia in the Costa Blanca, Spain. A traverse of the ridge requires a minimum competency of scrambling at grade 3. There is one short section of technical rock climbing at F4+ which is fully bolted and can be aided at A0 if necessary. Parties should allow 7 hours for a full traverse, if travelling unroped on up to grade 2 scrambling terrain. The ridge is most easily followed from East to West as many of the difficult sections can be bypassed by abseiling.
Download and print a pdf of the full topo here or follow this link to view it in your browser
El Cid via ferrata topo and route description
The El Cid via ferrata is the most challenging via ferrata in the area. It is not as amply equipped with rungs as the other via ferratas in the area and therefore it is necessary to have some climbing skills.
Download and print a pdf of the full topo here or follow this link to view it in your browser
Ponoch via ferrata topo and route description
The Ponoch via ferrata is near the town of Polop on the Costa Blanca. It is on the biggest cliff in the area which boasts many superb traditional and bolted rock climbs up to 16 pitches long. The route finding while on the via ferrata is very straightforward – just follow the rungs. The descent is well signposted but requires two 30m abseils which are possible with a 60m rope (the signs at the top state a 30m and a 35m abseil but this is not the case!). Allow a half day to complete the journey at a leisurely pace, although those moving quickly could do so in a couple of hours.
Download and print a pdf of the full topo here or follow this link to view it in your browser
Aristoteles (F4+ 9 pitches), Puig Campana, Costa Blanca
Aristoteles is a excellent long route on Puig Campana. It offers an excellent shorter alternative to the popular Espolon Central.
Download and print a pdf of the full topo or follow this link to view it in your browser
Villena via ferrata topo and route description
In 2008 the Villena via ferrata
was upgraded. A new section has been added below the original and provides a worthwhile extension. The Via Ferrata at Villena is relatively short and straightforward compared that of The Ponoch and is a good introduction to Via Ferrata. It is easily completed in a leisurely half day and could be combined with some rock-climbing at the nearby cliffs in Sax or a drink in the bar at the La Cruces monument, which overlooks the town of Villena.
Download and print a pdf of the full topo or follow this link to view it in your browser
Pirates of the Caribbean Sector, Toix sea cliffs,
Costa Blanca, topo and route descriptions The
Pirates of the Caribbean sector is a fantastic, new
climbing area on the Toix sea cliffs on the Costa
Blanca, near Calpe. The first ascentists are Paul
Storky Thorburn, Rich Mayfield and Marijne
Lekkerkerker. The climbing here ranges from
the fantastic expedition of Parle (F6a+, 3 pitches) to
harder, one pitch projects above the water's edge.
All of the routes require a brilliant, atmospheric freehanging
60m abseil. The rock here is of excellent quality and
it is a great crag when conditions and weather can
be poor elsewhere. Most of the routes stay dry
in the rain and the crag is south facing, catching
all the sun that's going. Download and print a
pdf
of the full topo or
follow
this link to view it in your browser (thanks to Paul Thorburn for
this topo).
Other websites with topos and sources of climbing information:
- Arbroath Climbs offers route info and topos for the Arbroath area of Scotland
- Rocktopos has free topos for crags in the Costa Blanca, many of which are not in the guidebooks.
- Scottish Climbs offers news, route info, forums and free topos for climbing throughout Scotland.
- WildWestTopos offers route info and topos for the Wester Ross area of Scotland.
- Cordee is the UKs premier supplier of climbing guidebooks
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